Mulberry

Care & Maintenance

Once established, mulberry is drought-tolerant and needs little supplemental water in the Southwest. It grows in almost any soil, full sun to partial shade, and will thrive where other trees struggle. That toughness is part of the problem: it needs almost no help from you to take over.

Common Issues & Threats

• Root system damage: Mulberry roots are aggressive, shallow, and relentless. They crack sidewalks, invade irrigation lines, and lift foundations. Planting one within 20 feet of hardscape or utilities is a long-term repair bill.
• Male tree pollen: Male mulberry is one of the most significant allergy-triggering trees in the Southwest. Tucson, El Paso, and Albuquerque have all banned new male mulberry plantings because pollen counts spike so severely in spring.
• Berry mess and self-seeding: Female trees drop fruit constantly for 4-6 weeks. The berries stain pavement, attract wasps and rodents, and the seeds sprout everywhere. You will be pulling mulberry seedlings from your garden beds for years.

Pruning Guide

Prune in late winter before new growth starts, or in midsummer if you're trying to reduce the canopy on an established tree. Heavy pruning in fall invites disease and stimulates weak, fast growth. Here's what most people get wrong: they repeatedly cut mulberry back hard, thinking it will slow the tree down, but heavy pruning actually triggers more vigorous regrowth the following season.

Did You Know?

Silk production depended entirely on white mulberry, because silkworms eat almost nothing else. The tree was introduced to North America in the 1600s specifically to start a silk industry, the industry failed, and the trees stayed. The wood is also exceptionally rot-resistant and was historically used for fence posts and boat building.

Where Mulberry Is Found

Mulberry is common in 94 of the US communities we cover, across 1 climate regions.

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